13 April 2012

New concepts, products and ideas for the garden

Posted in News, Biochar, Howto, Soil

Biochar increases soil’s productivity and reduces the amount of water needed to produce a good crop

New concepts, products and ideas for the garden
By Penny Stine:
Gardening may be as old as dirt, but that doesn’t mean that gardening methods, tools or ideas are equally aged.

Although it’s possible to grow a garden using the same practices used by your dear old granny, new research, new ideas and new discoveries may make it possible to grow more of what you want without moving to Iowa for the sake of growing better sweet corn.

Researchers and enthusiasts alike are singing the praises of biochar, a type of charcoal that’s produced when biomass is burned without oxygen.
There is evidence that native people in the Amazon rain forest made a type of biochar by setting plant material on fire and then smothering it with dirt.

Evidence suggests that biochar increases soil’s productivity and reduces the amount of water needed to produce a good crop. Locally, Dr. Carl Hochmuth, an advanced master gardener with Colorado State University Extension, has been experimenting with biochar in his own vegetable garden and house plants. His resulting lemons from an indoor lemon tree and huge lettuces and other leafy greens out in the garden suggest that something influenced plant productivity.

Although biochar isn’t sold anywhere in the valley as a soil amendment, biochar is available anywhere 100 percent pure charcoal, with no chemical additives, is sold. It’s also possible to build a home-retort system for converting branches and other woody material into biochar.

With the salty and alkaline soils that can be found in many places throughout the Grand Valley, it can be difficult to grow a traditional garden. Some gardeners opt for a raised bed garden as a solution. To keep salts from seeping into the raised bed, it’s important to put a barrier down between the native soil and the soil brought in for the raised bed.

Building a raised bed can get expensive by the time a homeowner purchases the materials for the beds and then purchases enough bags of soil to fill them.

Growing a garden in a straw bale could be a solution to the problem of poor soil and the expenses of a raised bed

“I’m a big promoter of the concept,” said Joel Karsten, author of ‘Guide to Growing a Straw Bale Garden’ and certified Nursery and Landscape Professional through the Minnesota Nursery and Landscape Association.
“It’s an easier method of gardening than traditional soil,” Karsten said. “You can put this on top of a parking lot.”
Conditioning the straw bale is paramount to growing a successful crop. Conditioning involves soaking the bale on a daily basis for about 12 days, as well as adding a nitrogen fertilizer somewhere around day four. It’s important to place the straw bales where you want the garden, once they’re soaked they become heavy and impossible to move.

According to Karsten, the straw bale will begin to decompose, creating the perfect medium for successful growing. It’s possible to plant seedlings or seeds on top of the straw bale and Karsten advocates using a soilless mixture or a fine compost for planting in order to eliminate weeds that may be in garden soil.

Karsten teaches classes on straw bale gardening in Minnesota, but believes the concept will work anywhere. In Minnesota, straw bale gardens require less water than traditional gardens. It’s also an inexpensive way to install a raised bed garden, although the bale will decompose in a season, which will create a good compost material for planting the next year’s straw bale garden.

Traditional compost

Traditional compost piles, which have been a mainstay of rural gardens for centuries, may not be appropriate in an urban setting. It’s possible to buy compost tumblers or large plastic compost bins which can speed up the process and disguise the decomposition process.
There are also new methods for composting like the Bokashi bucket, which promotes fermentation rather than decomposition.
“When fermented with microbes, food scraps can be broken down in two weeks,” said Glen Pritchard, owner of Bokashi Life, a company that sells the materials for successful Bokashi fermentation, which breaks down food scraps and plant material without air or water and which doesn’t produce heat, carbon or nitrogen.

The Bokashi bucket also produces a tea that can be drained via a spigot built into the container.

The success of the Bokashi method relies on the bucket itself, as well as effective microorganisms that convert kitchen and garden scraps into fertile garden soil in weeks, not months.

With more than seven billion people living on the planet today, it’s going to take new and innovative methods to feed them all. A straw bale garden, even if it’s fortified with biochar and nutrients straight out of a Bokashi bucket, probably won’t feed more than your family.

At least your family will enjoy some great tasting produce without depleting the world food supply.

Comments (6)

  • Renosa

    Renosa

    14 June 2012 at 22:50 |
    Dear Loretta acid loving plnats love coffee grinds. When you use it make sure you add Warm water to the plnats. The grounds will seep into the soil nourish the roots. If you're a tea drinker you can also throw the used tea bags in there too. This is what I do trust me it works. Here's another idea if you know people who're coffee drinkers ask them to give U their used grounds OK
  • Eesa

    Eesa

    24 May 2012 at 16:14 |
    Foliar feeding (spraying the leevas of the plants) with a dried kelp product, such as maxi-crop, or fish emulsion (Neptune's harvest is the least stinky of all the fish emulsions) will get you some quick growth organically. I use a mix of both on my crops especially in the late winter/early spring before the soil wakes up and also whenever the crops look lees than thriving,i know you can get fish emulsion products at almost any hardware store, finding powdered kelp is harder and i have only gotten it through on-line sources Was this answer helpful?
  • Monika

    Monika

    24 May 2012 at 15:38 |
    Compost. I use a vermiculture (worms) mteohd and it's working great. I've had no need for extra chemical fertilizer. That's about as green as you can get since you're saving landfill/water treatment waste and transportation. I started with two Rubbermaid 18-gallon containers with holes for ventilation, no need to buy/make a fancy contraption.When we had rabbits, we made a rainwater and manure tea that also worked well. If you use a manure system the animal should be a vegetarian to work correctly.There is a company that makes an organic tea of worm castings fertilizer product sold in re-used soda liter bottles.
  • Sarah

    Sarah

    24 May 2012 at 14:30 |
    You decided to use BISAC but you are not alayws either using the same subject headings as BISAC or you sometimes make up your own headings. For example Gluten-Free is one you added. You also leave out headings such as Regional & Ethnic/American and just use the term California Style. Are you creating your own subject headings list on the fly as you go along? Who is creating the subject headings list the Tech Services Department? Why did you make the decision to add some terms and leave out others? Won't this make cataloging more difficult?
  • Binita

    Binita

    24 May 2012 at 07:39 |
    I agree worm castings are great I also use a maunre tea it makes a lighter fertilizer that your plants can utilize quickly and you can use almost any kind of maunre even green maunre. Put a shovel full into a burlap bag and drop it in a trash can. then fill the can with water. I use a plastic coffee can to dip it into my watering can if it looks too dark (depending on the kind of maunre you use) you can fill the watering can half way and cut it again with water. Do this every week or so depending on how close to harvest you are (tapering off nearer to harvest time) Was this answer helpful?
  • Eduardo

    Eduardo

    24 May 2012 at 05:57 |
    ILS,I would recommend using an all-purpose genearl fertilizer like Miracle grow or Scott's all purpose fertilizer. Most vegetables benefit from a genearl mixture of the three elements commonly found in a garden fertilizer.Once you plant your seed, let everything sprout and develop about 4 to 5 true leaves before applying any fertilizer. Then I would suggest, if you're using a solid fertilizer, to side dress it, meaning you put the fertilizer alongside the plant about a couple of inches away from the plant. If you using a water soluble type of fertilizer, I'd just apply it around the plant during a watering session.I would basically follow the directions that accompany the fertilizer to ensure proper application.One piece of genearl advice I would offer: Don't over-plant your garden to the point where you wind up with 15 egg plants, or 20 cucumber plants unless you plan on sharing with the neighbors. Also, try to stagger the planting of the same veggies so that they don't all become ripe all at the same time. In other words, Plant several bean plants, then plant some more 7 to ten days later. This will ensure a steady crop, yet doesn't ripen all at the same time.good luck and enjoy your rewards from the gardenAdded: I would refrain from using manure during the current growing season, because it's too strong in pure form. Usually people will lay down fertilizer (chicken manure is excellent because it breaks down quickly) during the off season. This enables them to mix it into the soil and allow it to breakdown a bit before the onset of the growing season. Pure manure that's used on young plants (mature too for that matter) will easily burn the plants. The manure is too rich in several elements that's entirely too strong for most veggies. I would put down manure at least 30 days prior to planting and then water it well to allow it to mix with the soil and allow some leaching to occur.good luck

Leave a comment

You are commenting as guest. Optional login below.